Three Perfect Days in Ortigia, Sicily
Exploring the Island of Ortigia
The idyllic island of Ortigia, in the heart of Syracuse, Sicily, invites you to slow down and enjoy the moment. Stepping out of our taxi, we were instantly immersed in quiet streets, friendly faces, and sea views. While many visitors spend just a day here, we opted for three, and we’re glad we did. With extra time, we could wander through the maze-like streets, sip local wine, and float in the clear blue water without feeling rushed.
Arrival Day
We arrived in the afternoon after a three-hour bus ride from Palermo. There’s also a train option, but the bus was faster and direct, so I’d recommend it over the train. After settling into our centrally-located Airbnb, we set out to explore and enjoy a delicious dinner just a few blocks away at Ranieri.
DAY 1 - Discovering the Food
Morning - Street Food Tour
We began our first full day with a guided food tour — and it turned out to be one of the best we’ve ever taken. Our local guide, Dario, knew everyone and everything about the island. He led us through less-traveled streets, introducing us to new foods, trattoria owners, and market vendors, while weaving in history and culture. (Book this tour through Airbnb Experiences).
Highlights included:
Decadent coffee at Viola Bakery Café in Piazza Minerva
Arancini at Antica Giudecca, hot and crisp with the tastiest ragu — the best we had in Sicily
Samples of cheese, charcuterie, and focaccia at the bustling Mercato di Ortigia.
A behind-the-scenes stop at Caseificio Borderi, the island’s famous sandwich shop, where we watched the team build over-the-top sandwiches…torch-melted cheese included. (Add this to your list, and be sure to arrive early.)
A refreshing melon granita at Levante Gelato made with delicious local ingredients. The perfect way to end our tour.
Evening - Wine & Bites at Evoè Wine Bar
See Where to Eat and Drink in Ortigia for details.
DAY 2 - Exploring the Water
Morning/Afternoon - Ortigia Boat Tour
Ortigia’s coastline is best seen from the water. We booked a half-day boat tour that included multiple swimming stops and a homemade lunch, and while it wasn’t without its hiccups, it was a very memorable part of our trip.
Our group of ten was fun and easygoing, and the guides were welcoming. The first stop was stunning — caves to explore, rocks to jump from, and warm turquoise water. My husband and daughter swam into caves while my son and I climbed the rocks and jumped into the sea. The second cove was quieter, but having it all to ourselves made it just as memorable. Lunch was served on board: an authentic Sicilian-style home-cooked meal prepared by the captain’s wife and paired with chilled Grillo.
Not everything went to plan — the coastguard cut one swim short, and later the anchor got stuck on a rock, delaying us enough to miss our last stop. Still, cruising on the water, sipping wine, sharing stories, and diving into the clear water made for a very special day.
Evening - Bar Hopping & Dinner at Oz Osteria & Bar
See Where to Eat and Drink in Ortigia for details.
DAY 3 - Local Swim & Shop
Morning - Swimming at Solarium Forte Vigliena
After an early morning return to the market to pick up a few things for lunch along with some souvenirs, we headed to Solarium Forte Vigliena, a free wooden platform perched above the rocks. Locals and visitors gather here to sunbathe (on the deck or surrounding rocks) and dive into the Ionian Sea. It gets crowded, so go early if you can, and bring a towel. It’s a very local and unforgettable experience.
After a relaxed lunch back at our apartment, including more arancini from Antica Giudecca + coppa and cheese from Mercato di Ortigia, we spent the afternoon shopping. Ortigia streets are packed with everything from from touristy treasures to high-end clothing and jewelry. Linda Harris (aka The Cheeky Chef) shared a list of some of her favorites, including Serto Gioielli where the jewelry is made and sized on site. We left with beautiful keepsakes to remember the trip.
Evening - Dinner at Cod da Saretta
See Where to Eat and Drink in Ortigia for details.
Final Thoughts
Ortigia is the kind of place that invites you to live at a slower pace. Three days gave us just the right amount of time to wander its streets, discover the local flavors, swim in the Ionian Sea, and spend a day on the water. If you’re visiting during cooler months, you’ll also want to explore the nearby archaeological sites, which Syracuse is known for. But, even in the summer heat, Ortigia offered more than enough. Whether you’re here for a day or a long weekend, it’s a destination that captures Sicily in way that you’ll always remember.
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