Where to Eat and Drink in Ortigia
Italy is one of my favorite places in the world for many reasons, and the food is definitely one of them. Sicily, in particular, has its own traditional dishes that we quickly fell in love with: pasta alla norma (pasta with tomato sauce, fried eggplant, ricotta salata, and basil), arancini (crispy fried rice balls stuffed with ragù, mozzarella, or peas), caponata (a mix of eggplant, tomatoes, onions, celery, olives, and capers), and granita (a refreshing, lighter alternative to gelato made with water instead of milk or cream).
We enjoyed all of these and plenty more during our time in Ortigia — a small island with more restaurants than you’d think possible. Below are the spots that stood out, from casual sandwich counters to wine bars where Sicilian wines take center stage.
Ranieri
Piazza San Giuseppe, 8
Our first dinner in Ortigia was at Ranieri, often praised as one of the island’s top seafood restaurants. I would agree. Every dish was beautifully prepared and deeply flavorful. We chose one of the few indoor tables and enjoyed the cozy, welcoming atmosphere. Outside, tables are set along a piazza surrounded by historic buildings. The parked cars took away from the charm a bit, but once the sun set, it felt more inviting.
The staff was very attentive and helpful, guiding us through the menu and offering wine suggestions. The list included an extensive selection of Sicilian wines, giving us the chance to explore a range of local varietals that paired beautifully with our meal.
Highlights included:
Local burrata with seasonal cherry tomatoes and basil pesto
Couscous arancino with seasonal vegetables, Sicilian pecorino cream, and pistachio crumble
Aged Italian bluefin tuna with mixed greens and vinaigrette
Grilled octopus tentacles with Sicilian citrus
Oz Osteria & Bar
Via Santa Teresa, 9
Oz Osteria is just steps from the water and, for us, right around the corner from our Airbnb. This made it an easy choice to try, and one we’re grateful we did. Founded by owner Mattia Romano, the restaurant grew out of his OZeta project, which blends mixology with a curated culinary offering. The focus here is on quality ingredients, many sourced locally, resulting in food that is rooted in Sicilian tradition while still offering something distinctive.
Mattia and his team were friendly and attentive throughout the evening, suggesting dishes that became some of our favorites of the trip. They kept our glasses filled with Sicilian wines, and dropped off baskets of fresh bread to soak up every last bit of sauce. If we had time, we would have returned in a heartbeat.
Highlights included:
Mussels, perfectly cooked in a broth we couldn’t get enough of
Caprese salad with local mozzarella and sweet tomatoes
Flavorful Sicilian-style meatballs
Pork shank — delicious and unexpected in seafood-focused Ortigia, and a nod to Mattia’s central Sicilian roots
Cod da Saretta
Via della Maestranza, 134
Cod da Saretta was recommended to us by our food tour guide, a local who knows where to find the best fish in Ortigia. The restaurant is simple, and so is the food, but it’s delicious. Fresh fish and pasta dishes use the best local ingredients and come at very reasonable prices.
They don’t take reservations, so expect to wait for a table, especially in the evening. Outdoor seating is best since inside there are just a few tables in front of the open kitchen. With no air conditioning and bright lighting, it’s worth coming early to enjoy a table outside. The menu changes constantly, but you really can’t go wrong.
Caseificio Borderi
Via Emanuele de Benedictis 6
Caseificio Borderi is one of Ortigia’s most beloved sandwich shops, known for its generous portions and high-quality local ingredients. Fresh mozzarella, cured meats, homemade pesto, and seasonal vegetables come together to make unforgettable meals. It’s casual and often busy, with a lively and friendly atmosphere.
On our food tour, we were lucky to get a close up look thanks to our guide, who is friends with the owner (they even catered his wedding). We watched as the team expertly layered meats, cheeses, and vegetables onto homemade bread, finishing with a blow torch to melt the cheese. They sang, laughed, and clearly took pride in what they served.
The sandwiches are massive, share-worthy, and absolutely delicious — worth the wait and a must-stop at the market.
Bonus Sips & Bites
Evoè Wine Bar (Via della Maestranza, 56)
One of the friendliest wine bars we visited. Wines are offered by the glass, half-glass, or bottle, and you can even take one home if you find a favorite. I was in the mood for whites, and the sommelier put together a perfect lineup with table-side explanations of each. They also serve excellent plates of local meats and cheeses, along with other light dishes, making it easy to linger.
Enoteca Solaria (Via Roma, 86)
A laid-back spot with a strong list of Sicilian wines, from well-known names to small natural wine producers. We sampled a range of options by the glass, which the knowledgeable team helped us pick based on our preferences. They also serve light snacks if you come hungry. Many other bottles from outside Sicily are also available, which you can enjoy on-site for a small corkage fee, or purchase to take home.
Cortile Verga (Via della Maestranza, 33)
Set in a beautiful courtyard in the heart of Ortigia, Cortile Verga offers both dinner and cocktails. We stopped in just for drinks, and they were outstanding. Unique menu, carefully crafted, and served in a beautiful outdoor setting. If you’re looking for a cocktail bar that goes beyond the basics, this is the place.
Antica Giudecca (Via della Giudecca, 26)
Home to the best arancini we tasted in Sicily. Perfectly crispy and filled with slow-simmered ragù made fresh daily. It’s worth planning a stop around noon when they’re hot out of the fryer (and before they’re sold out!).Mercato di Ortigia (Via De Benedictis)
The Mercato di Ortigia is a staple for locals and a must-see for visitors. Stalls are full of fresh seafood, colorful produce, cheeses, spices, pistachio liqueur, and cured meats — the essence of Sicilian cooking. It’s the perfect place to pick up food to enjoy during your stay in Ortigia, or to bring home with you.Levante Gelato (Via Trento, 8)
Levante is known for artisanal granita and gelato made with seasonal, high-quality ingredients. We first tried the melon granita on our food tour, which was incredibly flavorful and refreshing. It was so good that we went back for the gelato, which was equally excellent. A perfect spot for a mid-day snack or a sweet ending to your day.
Final Thoughts
From simple trattorias to lively markets, Ortigia is a place where food is both rooted in tradition and full of personality. We loved the balance of fresh seafood, comforting pasta, and creative takes on Sicilian classics, along with the many wine bars pouring Sicilian varietals. And of course, we ate plenty of arancini and gelato along the way.
There are endless places to enjoy Sicilian food and wine in Ortigia, but hopefully this list helps you get started.
Want the full three-day itinerary? Check out Three Perfect Days in Ortigia to discover how best to enjoy time on this beautiful island.
