Visiting Puglia: Salento Coast to Lecce
This is Part 1 of a two-part series diving into my adventures in Puglia. Continue with Part 2: Ostuni, Valle d'Itria & the Northern Coast next!
Puglia — aka the heel of the boot — is a wonderfully authentic part of Italy. It's a region best explored by car, taking in the coastline, visiting small villages, and slowing down to fully embrace this beautiful part of the country. This is the route I took this spring, starting from a tiny hotel outside Gallipoli and ending in Lecce's old town, with a few stops in between. I'll begin by saying I'd love to go back and spend more time along the stunning coast.
The Ionian Coast: Gallipoli, Santa Maria al Bagno, Santa Caterina
Gallipoli is the most well-known town in this part of Puglia. It sits right on the coast, with beautiful views, streets lined with restaurants and gelaterias, and a vibrant nightlife. I chose to stay at Tenuta Negroamaro for a more relaxing experience, which is a quick 10 minute drive away. You can discover more about this wonderful gem of a hotel here.
Santa Maria al Bagno and Santa Caterina are just north of Gallipoli (about a 10-15 minute drive) and are also great places to visit. I went to all three on Easter Monday, when half of Italy seemed to be out strolling, and it was a genuine lesson in pace. Families walking arm in arm with no destination. Just enjoying the sunshine and each other. Cafés full of people sipping on Aperol spritzes and eating gelato. If you’re up for a longer walk, you can reach Santa Caterina by walking north along the water from Santa Maria al Bagno. It makes for the perfect afternoon.
Heading South Toward the Tip of Puglia
Heading south from Tenuta Negroamaro, the coastal drive toward the tip of the peninsula — where the Ionian meets the Adriatic — is one of the most scenic stretches of the whole trip.
Gagliano del Capo came recommended to me by a local contact in the area, and I'm so glad I made the stop. The town has a beautiful historic feel, and it's worth planning some time to explore rather than just driving through.
Just outside town is Ponte Ciolo, a bridge spanning a dramatic rocky gorge, with sea caves and a swimming cove below reached by a steep set of stone steps. There are hiking trails nearby too, including the old coastal path toward the Cipolliane caves, and a bar right at the bridge where you can enjoy a drink with the view. I pulled over for the view without realizing what I was looking at, and only spotted the path down to the water as I was driving away. If I could do it again, I'd plan to spend a few hours here.
North Along the Adriatic: Castro and Otranto
Heading north up the Adriatic side, the drive itself is beautiful. I wish I had pulled over more often to take it in. My advice, drive slowly and take advantage of the scenic view stops.
Castro is nicknamed the Pearl of the Adriatic, and it's easy to see why. It's a small, idyllic marina town and a great place to stop for a seafood meal. I wasn’t hungry yet, but did enjoy a delicious gelato while also enjoying the view.
Otranto is much larger and has plenty to see and do. The Spiaggetta del Molo beach is right in town, making it very convenient for a quick dip. But, it’s worth driving 3.5 miles north to Baia dei Turchi, a sandy stretch of beach with it’s clear blue water surrounded by a pine forest. Before (or after) doing so, make sure you spend time in Otranto.
Otranto old town is packed with history, including the Otranto Cathedral, considered one of the most significant in Europe. Inside, there’s a magnificent mosaic floor made from 600,000 limestone squares used to recreate scenes from the Old Testament and the Tree of Life. The Chapel of the Martyrs houses relics and bones of 800 people who lived in Otranto and were beheaded after refusing to convert to Islam during the Ottoman siege of 1480. It’s quite a sight. And, don’t miss The Crypt, which is filled with marble and granite columns, each one with its own unique carvings.
A little further along the coast, Santa Cesarea Terme is set on a cliff overlooking the Adriatic and home to one of the largest thermal bath spas in Salento. I didn’t make it here, but it’s on the list for my next visit.
VisitingThe Florence of the South: Lecce
From the coast, it's a short 45-minute drive inland to Lecce, a city that I quickly fell in love with. The barouque architecture, upbeat energy, winding streets, and delicious food made me grateful that I booked a few nights there.
I stayed at Palazzo Zimara, perfectly located just a block from the main piazza with a beautiful view of the church across the street. I was upgraded to a suite, which was quite spacious (almost too much for just one) with high ceilings and gorgeous murals. For breakfast, the dining room overlooks a lovely garden, which is where the delicious breakfast (included with the room) is held in warmer months. There's a rooftop terrace for relaxing or enjoying a spritz.
Another hotel worth knowing about: Palazzo Maresgallo. I visited on a day trip back to Lecce after being introduced by Silvia Messeri at Engel & Völkers who knows the owner, Miriam, well. Miriam gave my friend and I a two-hour tour of the property in true Italian-no-rush style. Every room is filled with art she's personally curated, the spaces are beautiful, sometimes funky, and intimate. The location is excellent, tucked just off the main streets in a quiet piazza. It has a special, local feeling, and it's priced more accessibly than you'd expect for what it is. I'd seriously consider staying here on a return trip.
What to do: A walking tour of the old town is worth booking. Lecce's historic center is the largest in Puglia, even bigger than Bari's despite Bari being the regional capital. Learning about the history, the food, and the local lifestyle is well worth your time. Check out Sara Bianchi for a very fun and incredibly informative tour. She’s fantastic!
Where to eat: There’s no shortage of delicious food in Lecce, whether a simple pasticciotto leccese pastry (find out how to make it here) or a modern take on southern Italian food. I share all of my favorite places in this blog.
Plan on at least two to three nights here for the best experience.
